[ 首爾 ] 南山谷韓屋村和 Korea House 晚餐

今晚要到韓國之家用餐, 也就是為什麼我們會跑到鐘武路這裡, 周圍除了南山谷韓屋村和韓國之家 Korea House, 其他就沒有什麼了. 之前是在找一個景點時看到韓國宮廷料理的介紹, 那時那網站是推韓國之家的宮廷宴, 照片看起來也不錯所以就 research 了看看.


我們是預約 5:30 的晚餐場次接 7:00 的表演, 到的時候場地也還沒開我們剛好可以到一旁 (真的就是在隔壁)的南山谷韓屋村, 這張是過馬路時看到夕照在山上, 冬天的冷真的是照片都看得出來, 那夕照在山上很美.


南山谷韓屋村本來不是建在這的, 這些韓屋是從首爾郊區於1998年遷到這邊來.
The original Hamsangol Hanok Village wasn’t here. It was in the suburb of Seoul.


這邊保留了5 棟朝鮮時代不同社會階級的人所居住的房子與屋內擺設.
There are 5 architectural complex of mansions owned by people of different social class here. All the furnishing has been restored (replica) to give a glimpse of what it was like.


在這邊也能租韓服, 去裡面的 cafe 還有折扣. 這場景其實穿韓服真的還滿美的, 不過有點冷就是了..
You could rent the traditional clothes and walk around here to take photos. You can even get a discount at the cafe in there. But I thought it was a bit too cold.


這個曾經是景福宮木匠大師的房子.
Carpenter Yi Seung-eop’s House in Samgak-dong – a house built by a master carpenter who participated in the rebuilding of Gyeongbokgung Palace from 1865-1868.

 
這邊的每個角落都別有洞天古早味, 很難想像這是在首爾這個很現代的城市.

 
這些老房子裡的每個房間的空間其實不大, 感覺很 cozy.


這邊的許多建築好像都能從一扇門或一扇窗看透一個房間到另外一扇門或一扇窗.
Through the doors and windows.

 
在這韓屋村中有間 cafe, 我覺得裡面將新舊設計融合的很不錯, 而且後面的那張穿著韓服的女生拿著捧花的照片真是有夠優雅夢幻!
Inside the Hanok Cafe & Shop Ari. I like how they mix the old and the traditional design. The photograph of a lady in the traditional dress looks pretty classy too.


新與舊. The new and the old. Outside of the cafe.


這個是純真孝皇后 (1894-1966) 伯父的故居, 原本的建材太老舊無法搬移,所以基本上這邊這個是重建的. 這個建築讓人很印象深刻的就是這個 口字型的layout.
This belonged to the uncle of Empress Sunjeonghyo. It’s in fact a replica because the original materials were too damaged to be relocated.


這是當時上流社會階層的住宅風格, 雖然 courtyard 不大, 但感覺很氣派.
The square shape layout and the architectural characteristic shows the house belonged to the highest classes at the time.


其實這韓屋村還滿大的, 一個小時若要仔細看其實有點趕.
The village park area is quite large. You’d need more than an hour to walk through all the buildings and the gardens, etc.


不然很容易走馬看花忘了這些是哪邊或是做什麼用的.

 
我們要離開時其實夕陽以星西下了.
It was getting dark by 5:30pm. We didn’t get to go to all the places in the village & didn’t get a chance to really study each place in detail. Maybe next time.


晚上就是要來韓屋村一旁的 Korea House 吃晚餐看表演, Korea House 晚餐因為價格滿高的有點掙扎了很久, 最後還是想想應該這吃過一遍就不會再吃了, 好好的來看一看吧..  基本上我們是透過他們的官網預定的, 就是網站上填表單說要訂哪一天的哪個價位的套餐 (晚餐只有套餐).
We were here mainly for the dinner at Korea House. The price for the dinner set is pricy for what it offers. It claims to serve the so-called “palace cuisine". After thinking about that for some time I finally decided to give it a try. Probably won’t have it ever again in my life anyway. So… we made reservation via their website.  The reply was pretty quick. You basically just let them know which dinner set you want to reserve for which date & time. Don’t need to pay in advance.


前面的幾道菜很多都是冷盤. Korean snacks + crepes.


Appetizers – lots of small plates. Mainly cold food.


這個還滿特別的, 但是其實還滿像日本懷石料理的煮物.
Pomegranate Shaped Dumpling Soup Stuffed Mushroom & Bean Curd (Tofu)

 
其他的 appetizers & 粥(沒什麼味道).

 
其實也沒有什麼哪個是主菜, 基本上每一道都有些特色&份量都差不多.
There’s not really a main dish. All dishes are small plates with different characters.


Braised Abalone & Grilled Fish (Chilean Sea Bass)


最後的這個韓式火鍋還滿有意思的, 不過裡面的下面的料都是白蘿蔔.. 也太多了.
Korean Casserole / Steamed Rice. Looks pretty interesting at first. But all the stuff under it were daikon….

 
這個甜點也太 OOXX 了. 其實 in general, 我覺得這宮廷宴主題晚餐貴得完全沒有那個價值, 雖然不是說難吃, 但也沒有說很好吃, 擺設&器皿也都很一般, 沒有什麼特別. 所以不意外和我們同個時間用餐的只有另外一對日本人, 但他們應該是選其他的一般套餐.

以下就是我們選的他們屬於"中價位"套餐內容. The content of the “medium-priced" set dinner we reserved, don’t think it’s worth the value:

Eojin Jeongchan

  • Korean Style Snacks
  • Colorful Platter of the Nine Ingredients with Thin Crepes
  • 3 kinds of Appetizer
  • Thin Millet Gruel / Water Kimchi
  • Seafood Salad Steamed
  • Blue Crab
  • Braised Ox-tails with Red Ginseng
  • Pomegranate Shaped Dumpling Soup Stuffed Mushroom & Bean Curd (Tofu)
  • Braised Abalone
  • Grilled Fish (Chilean Sea Bass)
  • Grilled Beef (Chuck Tail Flap)
  • Korean Casserole / Steamed Rice
  • Dessert


吃完出來都天黑了也變得較冷了, 我們因為在預定晚餐時也有訂表演的票 (因為有折扣所以也就說好吧.. 去看看..),  其實除了提供宮廷料理, Korea House (韓國之家) 是個可以提供體驗各種韓國文化的聚集地吧, 可以做泡菜, 買傳統手工藝品, 看傳統表演等. 最早在 1957 年由政府建成, 1981 年在歷經一年整修重建成類似景福宮建築 style 後重新開張.
This is the courtyard of Korea House. This place is actually more like a Korean culture promotion place. You can try kimchi DIY, watch performances, buy traditional arts & crafts,etc. It was getting dark.. We booked tickets for the performance here tonight (had discount with the dinner). The original Korea House was opened by the Public Affairs in 1957. Then it was remodelled to resemble the Gyeongbukgong Palace in 1980-1981.


其他用餐的包廂, 這邊的服務生當然穿韓服.
Passed by some other private seating areas in the restaurant complex. Definitely looked like there were a lot more people here.


這個晚上看的表演就是這個 – 韓式歌舞劇!本來還想說晚餐這麼不符合預期, 這個表演若也是爛我就太對不起 Monsieur 了, 不過還好這個表演很讓人出乎預期的精彩, 而且是那種讓人覺得好險有來看的那種. 不然我們對這邊的印象就只有那餐不怎麼樣又貴的韓式宮廷餐.
This is the performance we watched on the night. It’s like a musical mixing elements of Korean’s traditional performing arts. It was actually surprisingly good! The plot was simple but the mix of modern performing arts technology & presentation and traditional performing arts was impressive.

 
在這古色古香的小劇院, 舞台兩邊是演出時的配樂的樂手座位, 他們用的都是被列為非物質文化遺產的樂器. 在大學時修過一門 Korean folk music 的課, 就是在講這些屬於民間的音樂與舞蹈, 之前上課除了聽&背以外, 也有機會可以敲擊那些樂器, 但那種帽子上面掛個東西在那邊旋轉的我們當然無法做, 不過這次在這邊能看到這樣 live 的表演很棒.


這劇的劇情其實很簡單, 就是一個孝女的故事, 但傳統樂與舞蹈演出的結合,加上現代的投影布幕效果整個就是不同的 level. 另外一個印象很深的就是在韓國傳統民俗樂中其實很多民間故事或是傳說都是透過一位 “傳唱者" 用 “唱述"的方式唱旁白+對白+不同情緒的很有張力表現給傳下去, 就算聽不懂她在唱什麼, 但是也能從表演者的動作與演唱著的非言語表現看得出來, 視覺也是讓你想睡也睡不著的那種.  會推薦這個表演, 值得看!
Would highly recommend this performance. You’d get a sample of a few popular types of Korean traditional folk music and dance styles all in 1 show.

Korea House 韓國之家
W: http://www.koreahouse.or.kr/eng/

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